Bird Families

Secrets of the care and maintenance of a radermaker, nicknamed in room ash


Subclass / Troop: Paleognathae / Tinamiformes

Auburn tinamu or red-winged tinamu or tinamu martinetta (Rhynchotus rufescens) - inhabits the Savannahs of Argentina, southern and southeastern Brazil. Red-winged tinamu flies well and is able to overcome 1200 m three times in succession. It stays in open spaces, avoids forests.

red tinamu or red-winged tinamu or tinamu martinetta (Rhynchotus rufescens)

In terms of plumage color and constitution, tinamu resemble chicken ones, however, a number of morphological features indicate their primitiveness and closeness to ratite orders. On average, they do not exceed chicken in size, have a small head, thin neck and rather long legs. The plumage of both sexes is reddish-brown, spotted and striped. Females live in plurality, leaving males to take care of the offspring. Tinamu are nocturnal, during the day they keep secretive and take off very reluctantly. The homeland of tinamu is the endless South American jungle and steppes, where about 60 species live.

General information

Radermachera (lat.Radermachera) got its name in honor of a Dutch scientist who found it in the forests of Southeast Asia. It belongs to the bignonium family and has 16 species in the genus. In its natural environment, it lives up to 20-30 years, but at home it can please the owner for more than one decade.

You can buy a radermaker online or at a flower shop. The price depends on the size and starts from 500 rubles for a tree 20-25 cm high. A plant about a meter in height will cost about 2500 rubles.

The Chinese chrysalis looks like ash, ficus, hibiscus, laurel and coffee tree.

The snake tree, despite the name, is not poisonous. Moreover, it cleans the air perfectly.


In nature, a radermacher is a tall, spreading tree with several trunks. Its height can reach 40 meters, and the trunk diameter is 1 meter. The home version is more modest in size and looks more like a lush shrub that grows up to 2 meters in height and 70 cm in width.

Photo gallery

It has a main trunk and several horizontal shoots, which grow stiff over time. Their surface is smooth and covered with gray-green bark.

A distinctive feature of radermachers are "lentils" - small oval thickenings on twigs.

Long oval or ovoid leaves grow close to each other. They are glossy with jagged edges. Initially they have a light green color, but over time they darken from the middle.

Indoors, an emerald tree almost never blooms. The first buds on it can be seen only after 10-15 years. In the wild, they appear in the summer directly on the trunk or in the axils of the leaves and are very similar to bells. The color is white, cream or yellow-orange.

Signs and superstitions

Radermacher absorbs negative energy and helps you focus on important things. It is believed that the tree activates spiritual chakras and opens channels of communication with a higher power, therefore it is suitable for people engaged in spiritual practices.

If the plant dies unexpectedly, then it is believed that it has taken away a strong evil eye from the owner. According to feng shui, indoor ash has a beneficial effect on the atmosphere of the house. It is also a symbol of education.

Radermacher does not tolerate tobacco smoke.

How to shape a bonsai style radermaker

  1. Plant it in a small container (use less fertile soil).
  2. Fertilize sparingly and in minimal amounts.
  3. Prune roots when replanting.
  4. Remove excess side shoots, buds and twigs.
  5. Twist, bend and weight the branches with weights and wire until they are woody.
  6. Turn the plant in different directions towards the light so that the crown forms evenly.
  7. Cut the bark to age the tree.

Perform all tree shaping procedures in the spring-summer period and only after it has hardened in the pot.

Pruning branches and roots should aim to balance the proportions of the bonsai above and below the ground.

Home care

Winter is the dormant period of the tree.

Radermacher grows best in moderate humidity to provide her with suitable conditions:

  • put the pot in a tray with damp expanded clay, sphagnum or pebbles,
  • spray the leaves in hot weather,
  • once every 10 days, give the plant a cool shower (cover the ground with plastic).

The plant loves bright, diffused light. So place it on the southwest or southeast windows. In this case, the leaves should not touch the glass. When placing the tree from the south, make sure that it is not exposed to direct sunlight.

If the plant is large, then a table by the window or a glazed loggia would be an excellent option.

The tree needs clean air, so ventilate the room more often. Do not place the pot next to a radiator or air conditioner.

For even crown formation, periodically turn the plant to the light in different directions.

Pruning and shaping the crown

Radermacher grows quickly, so she needs regular pruning and pinching of shoots. The procedures are carried out in mid-April. At this time, the longest branches are cut by 1/3, and thin and elongated shoots are removed. If you additionally remove the side branches, exposing the main trunk, then the plant will take on the shape of a tree.

If you regularly pinch the upper buds, it will look like a lush bush. There is one more way of pruning - on a stump. This is a cardinal measure, but the plant tolerates it well and soon releases new shoots.


Indoor ash requires loose, fertile soil. You can prepare it yourself: mix turf and leafy soil, peat and humus in a 1: 2: 1: 1 ratio. Add a handful of coarse sand, agroperlite, vermiculite, or chopped pine bark.

But it is better to use ready-made soil for decorative deciduous plants (roses, citrus or palm trees). Indeed, in this case, the quality of the mixture will be much higher, and the risk of infecting the plant from the soil is minimal.

Radermacher can grow on nutrient solution.


The transplant is carried out in the spring. Young plants undergo this procedure annually, adults - once every 2-3 years. You can determine that the radermaker needs a new pot by the roots: they will braid the entire container and will be visible from the drainage hole.

It is also necessary to replant the plant 2-3 weeks after purchase. This time is necessary for him to acclimatize in the apartment.

  1. Prepare the pot in advance: rinse the old one well or soak the new one in water for several hours.
  2. Stir the soil 2 hours before planting to saturate with oxygen.
  3. Water the plant abundantly during the day.
  4. Lay 3 cm of expanded clay drainage at the bottom of the pot.
  5. Lay out a small layer of earth.
  6. Remove the radermaker from the old pot along with the soil.
  7. Remove old and damaged roots, prune 1/3 of mature plants.
  8. Treat the sections with fungicide or crushed charcoal.
  9. Transfer the tree together with a lump of earth into a new pot.
  10. Add new soil.
  11. Water.

After transplanting, place the pot in partial shade. The plant will look sluggish for the first days, but then it will recover. After that, move it to its usual place.

Pot selection

The planting pot should be plastic or ceramic and have a drainage hole. Radermacher is a plant with a weak fibrous root system, so a small pot is needed. Otherwise, its volume will be absorbed by the roots for a long time, and the flower will stop growing for this time.

When transplanting, the new container should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one.

Reproduction. Table

The emerald tree reproduces vegetatively or generatively... The first method is mainly used, because the seeds are almost impossible to get on their own. However, in some flower shops they are found.

1. Spread the seeds on the ground.
2. Spray.
3. Cover with foil or glass.
4. Leave in a warm place for 10-15 days.
5. After emergence, remove the cover.
6. After 15–20 days, transplant the sprouts into separate containers.
1. Make an incision in the barrel.
2. Apply wet sphagnum.
3. Wrap with plastic.
4. Ventilate the incision site daily.
5. Spray the moss.
6. Transplant the branch after its roots cover the entire surface of the film.
1. In May or June, cut the shoot at a height of 8-10 cm.
2. Choose a shoot with at least one leaf and internode.
3. Plant the stalk in a wet mixture of peat and sand.
4. Set up a mini greenhouse.
5. Air and moisturize once a day.

Fertilization and feeding

Top dressing in the spring-summer period is carried out twice a month. With the onset of autumn, it is gradually brought to naught. In winter, the plant is not fed. It is recommended to apply fertilizer only a few hours after watering, so as not to burn the roots.

From April to August, feed the radermacher with a complex fertilizer for decorative foliage plants, for example, Kemiroi Lux, Agricola, Etisso.


The leaves of the plant first of all tell about the disease of the plant. They will look painful, yellowish, streaked, and other signs.

Yellowing of flower leaves

The reason for the yellowing of ficus leaves is often dry and too warm air in the room, or too strong lighting. This usually happens during the heating season, when the ficus is placed on the windowsill, on the southern sides. Ficus leaves are burned by the sun's rays, as a result of which they begin to turn yellow and die. A way to combat yellowing of leaves

Remove your flower from the sun or batteries, humidify the air in the room, use a special humidifier. Some resort to a wet towel, then hang it on the heater or put it in the sun. Try sprinkling ficus leaves more often.

It is important to remember that it is forbidden to spray a ficus or any other plant if after that it remains in the sun. This leads to life-threatening plant burns.
The leaves will turn yellow even if you often transfer it. The plant does not have time to properly adapt and thus signals its state of health. It is necessary to initially decide where your ficus will be located.

Reasons for the fall of ficus leaves

Several reasons are to blame for this problem:

Your ficus is lacking in nutrients: try changing the soil by replanting the plant. Use leafy soil, peat and sand (in equal proportions). Remember to water your ficus plant immediately after transplanting.

High moisture level in the soil: this can be understood through the spots appearing on the surface of the leaves, yellowing of the edges and dropping. Wait until the soil is dry and continue with moderate watering. If the ficus continues to fall, then immediately transplant it into new soil and remove the rotten roots.

Remember that the condition of ficus leaves also depends on sparse watering. In this case, they may begin to dry out and wrinkle. If this problem is not solved immediately, the roots may suffer. Then the flower will not be able to live on.

High room temperature, dry air, excess feeding. The leaves are covered with spots and you can get rid of this phenomenon only after removing the causes of the appearance.

Falling leaves on the bottom of the ficus

If, when the leaves fall, healthy ones immediately grow below, then there is no reason for concern. If new leaves do not appear, then try replanting the plant or choose additional feeding.

What to do if the leaves die off after eliminating the above reasons
Often, the defeats are to blame, to which pests or infection are involved. Disinfectants must be used. To find the right remedies, you should analyze the plant itself and identify the cause

Gray rot, Botrytis

These types of diseases can be found in ficuses, which are in conditions of excessively humid air with high temperatures.

Gray bloom appears on some parts of the leaf. If shaken, dust will fly up. Ficus first darkens, then over time the leaves begin to die off.

You can cure the flower by removing all the affected leaves of the flower, and then let the soil dry out. Then stabilize watering and provide the room with regular ventilation.

Sooty fungus disease

A sooty fungus disease is detected by such signs as a black bloom on the outside of the leaf. Insect pests remain the predecessor of such a disease.

If the lesions are small, you can get rid of them using a soap solution. Walk a sponge soaked in soapy water over each ficus leaf. If the lesion has caused severe damage to the leaf, it can only be removed, and try spraying the root of the plant and stems with a fungicide.

Phytophthora, Pityum, Rhizoctonia

The following diseases. Such fungi lead to decay of both the roots and the stem. Gradually, the plant stops growing and after a while dies off. It is unlikely to come out, so remove it so as not to infect other plants near the infectious one.

For prophylactic purposes, resort to a moderate watering regime, water the plant with a manganese solution of low concentration about once a month.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew disease, you recognize it by white spots. A similar disease is provoked by high temperatures and humidity levels.

Such diseases are treated by using a solution. Copper sulfate, soda ash are mixed. For 10 grams of soda, two grams of households. soap. These components must be diluted per liter of water. Stir 2 grams of vitriol separately, pour the resulting liquid into the original mixture. Increase the volume until you get 2 liters and spray the affected areas with it.

Rust disease

Rust is one of the most common diseases in both indoor plants and garden flowers. It is expressed through patches of yellow and brown on the surface of the leaves. The edges of the leaves look like burnt. He will have ulcers on him. For treatment, cleansing the ficus from diseased areas is used and treated using a fungicide.

Try to identify the most accurate disease of your plant by comparing the signs you found with photographs on the Internet or in this article. Then the treatment of your ficus will be most productive, and you will be able to protect your neighboring flowers from infection.

Insect pests

Humans rarely see insects with the naked eye. They become noticeable only after breeding in a certain amount. An important part of taking care of your ficus plant is a thorough periodic inspection of the plant.

A very large number of insects and parasites that inhabit domestic plants, including ficuses.

Insect scale insect

The scale insect settles on the back of the ficus leaf or on the stem itself. Swollen brown spots indicate the presence of a scale insect. The scale insect lives off the sap of the plant. After it, a sticky coating will remain on the sheet. It is he who makes it possible for the sooty mushroom to develop.

The fight against this parasite is based on the use of soapy water and spraying with actellik. This procedure is repeated three times a week.

Spider mite

You will recognize it by the presence of spots of brown and gray shades on the sheets. In some parts of the ficus, there may be a subtle cobweb. Spider mites develop in dry and warm conditions. Due to such factors, spider mites multiply and live quickly.

Leaves exposed to spider mites dry out and fall off.Maintain a neutral humidity level in the room, do not forget to spray the plant, sometimes wipe the leaves with a solution of laundry soap.

Aphids are characterized by the presence of a mealy sticky bloom, yellowness of leaves and their deformation. Aphid traces become a breeding ground and soil for obtaining a fungal infection. This will definitely end with the death of the plant. To destroy aphids, they resort to treatment with soapy water or insecticides. Aphid insects can be found on many plants in the apartment.

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Growth pattern

The basic form is widespread in central and southern Japan and is characterized by a small height, up to 10-15 m, a narrow pyramidal crown, hanging branches and wide scale-like needles. It was she who, since 1853, became widespread in culture in Europe. Thujopsis dolabrata var. hondai is found in northern Japan. One-and-a-half-century trees reach 30 m in height with a trunk diameter of 1-2 m. The crown of this form is conical with thicker and more dense branching, the needles are smaller, the cones are larger.

Tuyovik grows very slowly, in Europe by the age of 10 it reaches a height of 3-4.5 m with a crown diameter of 1-1.5 m.The final height is 10-15 m with a crown diameter of 3-6 m.In GBS at the age of 20 it is a shrub height and diameter 1.2 m.

In the middle lane

One of the most shade-tolerant conifers, thuyevik grows in humid shady forests in its homeland. This means that in the garden, it requires moist, well-drained fertile loamy soils without stagnant moisture. It will feel better in a slightly shaded area, protected from all directions from cold winds. It is advisable to mulch young plantings and feed them with complex mineral fertilizer every two years in the spring. In hot weather, it is necessary to monitor not only soil moisture, but also regularly spray the crown of the plant with water. Tuyovik does not tolerate gas pollution in the air; it will not grow in urban conditions. As a rule, the plant does not require pruning, but if necessary, remove dry branches and restrict plant growth by pinching the tips of the shoots.


Tuyovik is propagated by semi-lignified summer cuttings in greenhouses with high air humidity, rooting by horizontal layers (this produces wide spreading plants) and grafting on the thuja. Can be propagated by sowing seeds after 3-4 months of stratification. However, it is better to buy a seedling in a nursery, since in the first 6-10 years after grafting, the tuyovik grows very slowly.

Forms and varieties

'Aurescens' it differs in yellow on the upper and white on the lower side of the color of the needles. The crown is dense, shirokokonicheskaya. Very rare on sale.

'Gracilis' - dwarf form.

'Nana' - dwarf shrub with a rounded compact crown up to 0.6 m in height and up to 1-1.5 m in diameter, with very small bright green needles. Differs in very slow growth.

'Variegata' differs in creamy white spots on green needles. In GBS at the age of 18 years, the height and diameter of the crown is 1 m.